Why Travel Eurail?: The Eurail System Excerpted from: "1993-94 Europe by Eurail: How to Tour Europe by Train" Seventeenth Edition © 1992 George Wright and LaVerne P. Ferguson Published by Globe Pequot Press, Old Saybrook, CT Reprinted with permission from the authors. ____________________________________________________________ ________ "To travel by train," wrote Agatha Christie, "is to see nature and human beings, towns and churches and rivers, in fact, to see life." This book has been written to assist you in seeing all that is life in Europe in the best possible way-- by train. "Europe by Eurail" is a train-travel guide that brings European-train-related information to its readers in a direct, pragmatic manner. It is not a hotel guide, but it tells how to locate them. A restaurant occasionally gains mention, especially if it adds to the graciousness and enjoyment of a train trip or a stay in a city. "Europe by Eurail" deals with the necessities of train travel in Europe and offers guidance for appreciating the educational and cultural sites that abound along the right of way of the Continent's magnificent rail system, Eurail. We welcome you aboard and wish you a very pleasant journey! Base City-Day Excursion Concept In 1976, "Europe by Eurail" launched a new concept for comfortable, hassle-free train travel by combining the economy of a Eurailpass with the Fergusons' "Base City-Day Excursion" method of touring Europe. "Europe by Eurail" has proved to be a most useful traveling companion for Eurailpass travelers. It identifies base cities throughout Europe in which you can stay in comfort and from which you can make numerous day excursions to interesting places yet return each night to the same hotel room. You can eliminate the hassles of daily packing and unpacking. This relaxed approach to rail travel is not only an enjoyable way to visit Europe's great cities, but it also produces an astonishing and delightful variety of things to see and do outside the cities. Those who would doubt that a rail system could reach remote places as will as major points within a country-- or series of countries, as is the case in Europe-- should consider that the system in Europe followed a well-developed plan of roadways and waterways. It spread like a series of connecting "webs" between major cities and, consequently, differs from the "linear" type of railroad construction found on the North American continent. Thus Europe's "weblike" rail structure provides the perfect opportunity to utilize the most comfortable do-it-yourself touring mode available-- the "Base City-Day Excursion" method. With a Eurailpass and a current copy of "Europe by Eurail," you become your own tour guide, packing and moving on only when you want to. For the experienced traveler, or the novice, it's the only real way to go! World's Finest Rail System The rail system in western Europe today is, without reservation, the finest in the world-- and it's getting better. Many trains in Europe now run at speeds in excess of one hundred miles per hour; and the French TGV (train a grande vitesse), Atlantique, currently the holder of the world's speed record at 317 miles per hour, now runs at speeds up to 186 miles per hour (300 kilometers) in regular passenger service. Introduced in 1981 between Paris and Lyon, the original French TGV service in its first ten years of operation with speeds up to 168 miles per hour has carried more than one-hundred-million passengers with a perfect safety record. Each of the new Atlantique TGVs features public phones, a nursery, special facilities for handicapped travelers,, and even salons for business meetings. Each train set is capable of transporting 485 passengers-- a 30 percent increase over the original Paris-Lyon TGVs-- and when coupled together in tandem for 970 passengers, they outclass jumbo-jet performance over point-to-point distances between the major cities in France. Similar modernization programs are underway in other European countries. For example, Germany has improved its trackage to allow speeds up to 165 miles per hour for its InterCity Express (ICE) service. Departures are hourly throughout the business week to every major city within Germany. If changing trains en route is required, with typical German efficiency the train you are transferring to will be standing immediately across the platform form the train you are arriving in. Comfort is being emphasized, too. Both first and second-class coaches have increased leg room, and the seats now recline farther for those who wish to take a nap. Switzerland continues with its major rail-line modifications to speed up traffic in both east-west and north-south directions. Hourly and sometimes half-hourly service between major Swiss cities is now available. The sparkling new rail stations at the Swiss airports in Geneva and Zurich operate with Swiss-watch efficiency, speeding arriving and departing air passengers on their way. TGV service operates between Paris and Geneva, Lausanne, and Berne. The green light has been given for the TGV North system connecting Paris with Brussels and Amsterdam to the north as well as with London via the English Channel tunnel, which is scheduled to open in spring of 1994. Presently, the fastest rail-catamaran connection between Paris and London takes five hours, thirty minutes; via the tunnel, the total time will be reduced to only three hours. The basis for high-speed rail traffic is a flawless rail bed. Europe's rails sing as trains move smoothly enough to permit dining without fear that the next curve might slosh your coffee. Most rail lines throughout western Europe today are equipped with endless, welded track. The old "clickety- clack" of the track, regardless of its nostalgic value, is gone forever. "See Europe by train" has been the favorite slogan of Europe's railways for decades. But it has never been full of meaning as it is today. Rail travel, too fast now for any chance of boredom, is still leisurely enough for full enjoyment of the constantly changing scenes of hills and hamlets, farms and forests, and cities and countrysides that make the European landscape fascinating. Every country has its own special attractions to offer rail travelers as they speed by, ensconced in comfort and free from worry or distraction. To the pleasure of the passing scene is added the opportunity of taking meals and refreshments at leisure in ideal surroundings and chatting with your fellow passengers-- the very kinds of people you hoped to meet. The EuroCity System Like the icing on a cake, we have saved the best part for last-- it's called EuroCity. Introduced in 1987, the EuroCity system consists of seventy-four pairs of fast, air- conditioned, international day trains, all with food services and many with public telephones aboard. The system is augmented by eight overnight sleeper trains. All EuroCity trains will haul both first and second-class cars. Some of the trains require a special fare supplement and seat- reservation fees. Eurailpass holders, however, will not be required to pay the supplement, and only on certain trains will seat-reservation payment be necessary. Now the best international trains in Europe, the EuroCity network serves 200 cities in thirteen countries. The trains have been selected on the basis of high-speed performance; their minimum speed on all trips is ninety kilometers per hour, including stops. The eight pairs of overnight trains match the speed of the EuroCity day trains and consist wholly of sleeping cars with berths and, in some cases, couchettes. Eurail Pass For economy, versatility, and convenience, the "king" of all rail passes is the Eurailpass. The popular pass entitles a traveler to unlimited, first-class rail travel, free of any fast-train surcharge, throughout seventeen European countries: Austria, Belgium, Denmark, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Ireland, Luxembourg, Netherlands, Norway, Portugal, Spain, Sweden, and Switzerland. It also gives access to many steamers, ferries, and buses, either entirely free or at reduced fares. You go as you please, stopping where and when you want. It is one of the finest transportation values available today. To complement the length of your trip, you can choose form five categories of Eurailpass: fifteen days, twenty-one days, one month, two months, or three months. As a rule of thumb, if your itinerary includes two or more countries, you probably need a Eurailpass. If you are visiting one country only, you may want to investigate that country's "national rail pass." Eligibility requirements and pass-use regulations vary with each country, so you should write or telephone the national tourist office of the country in which you plan to travel. Eurail Youthpass If you are under twenty-six years of age, you are eligible to purchase the Eurail Youthpass. It entitles you to the same privileges as the first-class Eurailpass. You must travel in second class, however, as do most Europeans. If your budget is limited but you want to see as much of Europe as possible and your passport (which never lies about age) records that you've not yet reached your twenty-sixth birthday, then consider a one or two-month Eurail Youthpass. Eurail Saverpass Three or more people traveling together may take advantage of the Eurail Saverpass, valid for fifteen consecutive days of unlimited, first-class rail travel in the same countries honoring, and with the same privileges as Eurailpass. From October 1 through March 31, the fifteen-day Eurail Saverpass is also available for two people traveling together. Eurail Flexipass and Youth Flexipass The Eurail Flexipass provides exactly what its name implies- - flexibility. You can choose from three categories of Flexipass: any five, ten, or fifteen days of unlimited first- class rail travel to be used within a two-month period. The flexibility of the pass lies in the fact that the days need not be consecutive, as is the case with other types of Eurailpasses. It can be used any days within the validity period. The Youth Flexipass (for persons under age twenty-six) provides unlimited second-class rail travel for any five, ten, or fifteen days within two months. (Pass availability subject to change.) Eurailpass Validation From the date of purchase, you have six months to begin using your Eurailpass. Prior to boarding your first train in Europe, present your pass for validation at the rail station from which you intend to start your Eurail journey. The European rail official validating your pass will enter the starting and ending date for the pass, together with your passport number. Do not make any entries (such as filling in your passport number) prior to validation. Be certain that your pass is validated before you entrain; otherwise, you may have to pay a penalty. Check the validation dates before accepting the pass from the validating official. If an error has been made in either the dates or your passport number, have it corrected immediately. Allow for a little extra time validating your pass. The information window may be crowded. Once your pass is validated, however, that ends standing in line to buy another ticket-- a convenience you'll like. Why Eurail? Many visitors to Europe fail to realize that the European rail system (Eurail) can take you to practically every nook and cranny of the Continent, so they insist on renting a care there. At first glance, those European fly-drive packages appear enticing. But the more you investigate them, the less appealing they become. Annually, European road traffic has four times the number of fatal accidents North America has, and watching the road ahead is not what most folks go to Europe to do. That four-passenger economy car never could carry four passengers and their luggage-- so bring on the Mercedes at three times the price and double the gas. Prepare yourself for another shock-- the price of gasoline in Europe is about three times that in the United States. We have a report about one American couple who drove from Monte Carlo to Innsbruck, Austria, in one day, about 435 miles, and paid $125 in gasoline and tolls alone! Another very important facet of a fly-drive package is the VAT (value added tax), which currently ranges from 6 to 33 percent in European countries. In some countries, foreign tourists are eligible for refunds on certain purchases, but there are no VAT refunds on car rentals. Reference to the VAT is either tactfully avoided in car-rental information or hidden in the fine print of the terms. Whether or not it's hidden, after determining the low, low cost of a rental car with unlimited mileage privileges (which also include the privilege of buying gas), don't forget to multiply the bottom line by the VAT value of the country for the true cost of your intended auto-excursion. Another item overlooked frequently is insurance. To assure yourself of the minimum personal-insurance protection plan to add at least $6 a day for that coverage. By now, you will begin to realize why Europeans are parking their cars and riding the trains. One of the real reasons for going to Europe is to mingle with the Europeans you came to Europe to meet. Traveling about Europe day after day in a motor coach filled with other American tourists or riding for hours in a small rental car with the spouse and kids crammed in with the suitcases are not, in our opinion, the ways to accomplish this. They could become hazardous to your health-- and that of your kids; and they're the ones you go for in the first place. On the trains of Europe, Europeans will be sitting next to you or across from you in the diner. You will be sharing the same experiences, so conversation will come easily. It's a great way to make new friends and the kids can eat, get a drink, or go to the bathroom just as often as their little hearts desire. Trains have an aura of romance about them that cannot be found in any other mode of transportation. For example, the mere mention of the Orient Express sparks visions of intrigue, mystery -- and sumptuous dining. Along with the original Orient Express, the famous name trains such as Mistral and Train Bleu are gone. They've been replaced by efficient, modern, high-speed international express trains. But the thrill of rail travel is still there. Travel by rail in Europe is a unique and pleasurable experience. We urge you to try it-- and take your imagination with you. How Long? How long should your Eurail tour be? Answer that question and you have completed at least 50 percent of the planning. There are many factors bearing on this determination, the most important being the individual. How much annual vacation time do you have? How do you take it? All at one time or in two or more segments? Travel magazines and the travel sections of the Sunday newspapers are usually loaded with one-week trips to almost anywhere-- Europe included. Based on our own experience, however, we can state categorically that going to Europe for any period of less than two weeks is a waste of time and money. A look at the logistics involved in a European visit supports our thesis. Aircraft departures from North America usually begin in the evening and arrive in Europe the following morning. During the flight time of from seven to eight hours crossing the Atlantic, you will be subjected to a cocktail hour, a dinner, a break for an after-dinner drink, and a full-length feature movie. In the morning, you'll be awakened and served breakfast. Add up the time consumed by all the scheduled events en route and you'll quickly determine that your night aloft over the Atlantic consisted of many things-- except sleep. Theoretically, even if you slept through the entire trip instead of eating, drinking, and watching movies, your body and all its functions will be arriving in Europe a few hours after midnight by North American time. It will crave adjustment to a phenomenon known as "jet lag," which will be trying its best to interrupt your plans for a carefree vacation. In other words, if you take two days for travel and at least one day for adjusting properly to the time change, the balance left in a one-week vacation hardly seems worth the trip. Upon your return home, you'll probably be a living example of the old adage, "A person who looks like he needs a vacation usually has just returned from one." Another consideration to be taken into account when deciding how long your Eurail vacation should be is the type of airline ticket to purchase. Most of the economical fares for transatlantic air travel evolve around day fourteen, meaning that your minimum time to be spent in Europe after departing from North America must be 14 days in order to qualify for the APEX (advanced purchase excursion) fares. Consequently, in consideration of both time and money, your stay in Europe should be at least two full weeks. If possible, plan your departure for a Thursday. It makes sense when you consider that you will be gaining an additional weekend before having to return to work. Also consider that APEX fares are higher for eastward departures on weekends. So, "go for it"-- on Thursday. Take a Timetable We strongly recommend the "Thomas Cook European Timetable" as a part of your Eurail trip planning. An invaluable aid, it contains complete timetables covering every major route in the seventeen countries honoring the Eurailpass. In addition, it contains plans of the major rail terminals throughout Europe and a wealth of other information, such as monthly temperature and rainfall statistics for each base city. We suggest that you purchase a copy before departing on your Eurail trip and that you take it with you. It may be a bit bulky, but you'll find yourself delving constantly between its covers. The timetable is published on the first day of each month. The June-September issues contain the summer train schedules; the issues from October-May contain winter schedules. To assist in planning summer rail tours, the issues from February through May contain a advance summer- service supplement. Rail-Station Timetables In most European rail stations, poster timetables, available in the foyer of the station and on the train platforms, show departure and arrival times as well as the platform numbers. These timetables can be recognized easily by the color of their background. As a rule, departure timetables are printed on a yellow background, arrival timetables have a white background. All trains on these timetables are listed chronologically from 0001 to 2400. Fast trains are shown in red instead of black. Next to the departure or arrival time, you will find the name and number of the train, its routing to final destination, and the most important intermediate stops along the route, together with the track and platform number at which the train departs or arrives. Although these timetables are handy during your trip, Cook's "European Timetable" is indispensable for planning purposes both before, and once aboard the trains. You should have on handy at all times. The Passenger Trains of Europe Passenger trains in Europe range from the sleek TGV (train a grande vitesse) and EuroCity "name" express trains running on the main lines to the perky little omnibus rail cars that ply over the suburban lines between the cities and their suburbs. In between, you find the national InterCity trains that provide express services within a country's borders, plus a whole stable of various passenger cars (carriages) including plush compartment interiors and businesslike commuter conveyances. Almost without exception, every one is sparkling clean. Despite the demise of the passenger train on other continents, the passenger train is "alive and well" in Europe. But don't take our word for it. Go see for yourself. Flagships The TGVs and the EuroCity trains are the flagships of the fleet. With the exception of the eight EuroCity sleepers, they are basically "day trains" and are "back in the barn" well before midnight. Presently, none of the TGVs or the regular EuroCity trains have sleeping accommodations, but they make up for it with restaurants, snack bars, and cocktail lounges. They are comfortable, convenient, and every bit the "luxury liners" of the European rail fleet. Ride a TGV, EuroCity, or InterCity train whenever there is one going in your direction. As a holder of a Eurialpass, you are entitled to ride them absolutely free without payment of surcharge. On many of the trains running throughout Scandinavia, seat reservations are required; but this is no great problem, because all Eurail routes are linked by a computerized reservation system that is available in every major rail terminal. Even without an advance reservation, your chances of climbing aboard a EuroCity or InterCity within continental Europe with a Eurailpass in hand are good. Many EuroCity trains require seat reservations; others do not. It's best to check the train departure board. If there is an R next to that train, then seat reservations are mandatory and you should not board without a reservation. Seat reservations are mandatory for all TGVs but make easy with automatic reservation-ticket dispensers in every rail station served by the TGVs. You will be fined if you do not have a seat reservation on a TGV. You should announce your intended destination each time you present your Eurailpass to a train conductor. If you happen to be on the wrong train, or in the wrong coach, he will advise you accordingly-- information that we're sure you'd like to have. In addition to the fleet of EuroCity trains in Europe, several countries have their own luxury class fleets. Germany operates its InterCity Express (ICE) service between its major cities. Finland has a flashy new line of "Rapid" trains. Italy has its "Rapido" line, while Spain has the "Talgo," "Electrotren," and "Rapido." France is on line with its TGV. All of the above require supplemental fares unless you are traveling with a Eurailpass. Seat Reservations Seat reservations are mandatory on all long-distance trains in Spain. This includes most first and second-class cars. Seat reservations are mandatory on the InterCity and Lyntog (lighting) trains of Denmark, as well as Sweden's Rapid and Express trains. But unlike reservations in Spain, you can pay for the seat reservation aboard the train if you did not have time to obtain it in the station. The cost of seat reservations in Europe is approximately $4.00 (U.S.) and is not covered by the Eurailpass. Austria charges all first- class passengers (including Eurailpass holders) a supplement of 50 schillings for seats on EuroCity trains operating within Austria. But if your destination lies outside of Austria, only the seat reservation is required. In Switzerland, on the contrary, there are no reserved seats unless the train is going into another country. Seat reservations become more important the farther south you go in Europe. The trains run less frequently and are more crowded. As a rule of thumb, always have seat reservations when traveling in Italy and Greece. As we mentioned previously, seat reservations are mandatory in Spain. Train Splitting Many international trains in Europe have multiple destinations. Accordingly, passenger coaches are "split" en route. All trains in Europe display side boards announcing their departure point, stops en route, and final destination. Check before boarding to make certain you'll end up where you want to be. Announcing your destination to the conductor as he checks your Eurailpass is one sure way of double-checking. Aboard trains "splitting" coaches, it is wise to remain in your own coach when the train halts at a terminal. The "splitting" process takes place very quickly, and you could easily end up at the wrong destination-- sans suitcase and members of your immediate family. Express Trains The mainstay of the European rail system is its regular express trains. They convey both first and second-class coaches and usually make more intermediate stops than the EuroCity, InterCity, and Rapido trains. First-class coaches are identified by a yellow stripe over the train windows or a large number 1 on or near all doors. Finding the proper coach to board while the train is standing in the departure station is easy: Look for the yellow stripe or the number 1 identifying the first-class conveyances; then check the sideboards for the destination you want. If you hold a seat reservation, locating the coach is made simpler by the fact that the reservation slip will show both the car number as well as the number of the seat being reserved for you. Plan to board the train at least several minutes before its scheduled departure. European railroads pride themselves on their punctuality; so they hold to their schedules-- whether you are on the train or not. European trains stop for only a short time at intermediate stations to let passengers on and off. Stops of only one or two minutes are not unusual. Consequently, to position yourself on a platform where the first-class coaches will halt, check the illustrated train-composition boards displayed on the platforms. They will save a lot of scurrying around when the train arrives. Another way of assuring that you are positioned properly on the platform is to ask the uniformed "starter," who will be on the platform a minute or two before the train arrives. If your itinerary calls for changing trains en route, ask the conductor what track you will be arriving on and what track your connecting train will depart from. Changes between EuroCity, InterCity, and "name" express trains often take place conveniently between tracks served by the same platform. When you change from an express to a local, even though the express may be running late, the local (or subordinate) train will usually wait beyond its regular departure time to accommodate transferring passengers. Every European railway station has arrival and departure times for its trains posted. These timetables usually list all the intermediate stops, as well as the final destinations. They also list the platform and track the train will arrive on or depart from. Should the station have digital displays, as many of the main train terminals in Europe do today, the information posted on these displays will take precedence over the printed schedules. But the track numbers seldom, if ever, change. The posted timetables usually show departure times on a yellow sheet and arrival times on a white one. Many European railroads provide minischedules listing train services between two specific points. Help yourself. They are free of charge. Ferry Crossings In addition to unlimited tail travel and other conveniences, a Eurailpass, Eurail Flexipass, or Eurail Youthpass provides holders with passage on ferries conveying rain passengers within the Eurailpass countries. In some instances, passengers must detrain and board the ferries; but on most major rail lines, the passenger coaches are loaded directly onto the ferry. In either case, the ferries are equipped with amenities such as restaurants, bars, boutiques, and, when traveling between countries, money exchanges and tax- free shops. Three major international ferry connections exist between Italy and Greece, Finland and Sweden, and France and Ireland. The distances are considerable and usually involve overnight travel. ____________________________________________________________ ________ About the Authors George Wright Ferguson was born in Philadelphia twenty minutes after his mother was taken from a Washington-New York express train. He grew up alongside the Baldwin Locomotive Works on the "Pennsy" main line, and trains have continued to play an important role in his life. A graduate of Penn State, George served in Europe during World War II as a test pilot and engineering officer with the Eighth Air Force. His first European train ride was aboard a vintage 1918 "40-and-8" freight car between Munich and Antwerp, a trip that lasted four days and four nights! After a stint as editor, and later publisher, of a farm- equipment magazine, George was recalled to active military duty with assignments in Korea, Japan, and Vietnam and at the Pentagon in Washington, D.C. George retired form the Air Force in 1967 with more than 5,000 flying hours in his log book. As a senior Air Force logistician, he was commended by Defense Secretary Robert McNamara for his study of the Air Force's worldwide-movement capabilities. George's international experiences continued with his position as an international coordinator for the Battelle Memorial Institute, the world's largest sponsored-research organization, headquartered in Columbus, Ohio. His work included assignments in Germany, Thailand, Iran, and South America. George met the other member of his team, LaVerne, at Battelle. LaVerne first discovered her love for travel in a third- grade geography class. Determined to "see the world," she has collected brochures and information about various countries for many years. LaVerne majored in social studies and English at The Ohio State University. She also completed courses in library search and business communications. LaVerne contributes her experience as an executive secretary and technical writer to the Ferguson team.