From: jimkirk@news.uwyo.edu (Jim Kirkpatrick) Newsgroups: rec.crafts.metalworking Subject: FAQ part 5 of 7 Date: 1 Sep 94 10:13:40 MDT Organization: University of Wyoming - Laramie, WY This is the FAQ for rec.crafts.metalworking. It is in several pieces to keep the overall size of each part below the limits imposed by some news systems. This is part 5 of 7. Generally, units below are United States dollars, degrees Fahrenheit, and all the other silly backwards units we Americans still use. Sorry. The questions being answered in part 1: 0. Where is this FAQ kept, and where are archives of the newsgroup? 1. The original rec.crafts.metalworking charter. 2. The CLOCKS bitnet mailing list, and other related lists. 3. What are some good books and/or video tapes on metalworking? 4. Who makes good lathes/mills/etc? 5. Where do I buy a machine? 6. What are good magazines to subscribe to? The questions being answered in part 2: 7. Where might one take classes or get instruction? 8. Where can I get raw material for my projects? 9. Where can I get tools, drill bits, etc.? 10. What are some of the related professional/hobby associations? 11. How do I harden/temper metal? 12 How do I wire up this strange motor? 13. How do I deal with mail-order suppliers? 14. How to sharpen knives, chisels, and other tools? 15. Some safety reminders. 16. How do I drill round holes? 17. What's TIG and MIG? The questions being answered in part 3: 18. MIG welding technique. 19. Which MIG welder should I buy? 20. Books on welding. 21. Soldering/brazing topics. 22. What are bolt grades? 23. What is XYZ made of? The questions being answered in part 4: 24. How do I build a furnace or forge? 25. What is Damascus steel? 26. How do I repair/replace this old leather belt? 27. Can I use a drill press as a cheap vertical mill? The questions being answered in part 5: 28. What is involved in building a steam engine? 29. How do I anodize aluminum? 30. Rust! How do I deal with rust? The questions being answered in part 6: 31. Are there any machinery museums? 32. How do I cut metal? 33. What kind of oil should I use on my lathe/mill? The question being answered in part 7: 99. Names and addresses of publishers and suppliers (OK, so I got tired of re-numbering it every time a new question was added!) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 28. What is involved in building a steam engine? NOTE: see also the FAQ entry in rec.railroad.models on live steam railroad modeling. (with thanks to Tim Kirby and Ian Kirby (no relation)) The creation of working steam engines, be they stationary engines, road engines, marine or rail locomotives, is quite a common hobby throughout the world. Many people who would like to get involved in such modelling are, however, frequently at a loss as to how to start. What follows is a set of simple pointers to get you on board. - Magazines and Journals There are four (English language) magazines that specifically deal with this subject: "Model Engineer" and "Engineering in Miniature" from the UK "Modeltec" and "Live Steam" from the USA (they may be available from a local worthwhile model store; alternatively, check the FAQ book list for the publishers) Reading any of these magazines will quickly give a feel for the hobby. - Clubs and Associations They are all over the world. Look through the magazines listed above for club addresses; most if not all of them have the names and addresses of clubs all over the world. If you can't find a club remotely near you, here are a couple of suggestions: Try posting a request on the net! It can be a remarkable resource. Try writing to the editor of one of the magazines. - Scales and sizes Stationary engines are most often tabletop sizes; they can be very decorative and interesting exercises in machining but are not often "used" once built. Marine engines are often built as decorative or "stationary" models, however you may also find some installed in model boats. Some of the suppliers in the magazines listed above may provide more information about marine engines. Road locomotives are usually referred to purely by scale, most often somewhere in the range of 3/4" scale (3/4 inch to the foot) to 4" scale (4":1') A farm traction engine in 3/4" scale will probably be around 12" or 14" long - quite handleable by most people. A 4" scale model is 1/3 full size - big, heavy and arguably no longer "Model Engineering", at least with respect to the resources available to the average mortal. Rail locomotive scales can be a little more confusing because of a tendency to refer to them by the rail gauge that they run on. Unfortunately the gauges are not completely standardized for some scales (although one might expect that they would be.) The following table lists the most common "larger scales" and the gauge lines they run on (based on a nominal 4' 8.5" so-called standard (USA) gauge track): 3/4" scale (0.75":1') = 3.5" gauge 1" scale (1.00":1') = 4.75" or 5" gauge 1.5" scale (1.50":1') = 7.25" or 7.5" gauge There are 10.25" and 15" lines as well as smaller (2.5" gauge, Gauge 1) that are modelled in live steam. Availability of land, track and facilities will often affect a builders choice of scale. Note that the modelling of narrow or broad gauge models introduces another confusion factor - a 1.5":1' scale model of a prototype that ran on 3'6" gauge track in real life would result in a track gauge of 5.25". This would commonly be adjusted to fit on a 5" or 4.75" gauge line. - It must cost a fortune and take forever Not necessarily. There are many suppliers in this hobby who can provide as much or as little as you need, from a set of original blueprints for a prototype, through those who can provide scaled drawings of proven models, books giving detailed operation-by-operation procedures on how to create a model, sets of castings that need machining or even ready machined kits that can be assembled on a kitchen table... or they will sell you a complete, ready-to-run model. The amount of money spent will vary typically as a function of how big the model will be, how much work the builder does (as opposed to buying ready-built parts) and what resources the builder has in his/her workshop. Needless to say, the amount of time spent building such a model will be a function of the same things. As a rule of thumb, the more you do yourself, the cheaper it is and the longer it will take you. Reading the classified advertisements in the magazines listed you may be able to pick up a part-complete or secondhand model for less than the cost of the parts new (though you are at the mercy of the workmanship of the builder. Let the buyer beware). - What about boilers? The subject of boilers is complex; each country has its own rules and regulations - which could never be justly covered here. Some pointers, though: + If you build a 'published plan', there is probably a published boiler plan to go with it. This usually means it is a proven design, which is *good*. + Steam clubs will have some sort of regular boiler inspection and test requirement. Talk to the appointed boiler inspector at your club. + If you are in the slightest bit wary or unhappy about building a boiler, *get some help from someone who knows what they are doing*. Some companies will sell you "standard" boilers for published designs ready made; there are others who specialize in building custom boilers. You may be able to lower the cost by doing all the preparation work and getting someone else to (braze/weld/whatever) the bits together. + Remember... this is a pressure vessel full of very hot water and steam. You *really* do not want it to fail. You will probably be closest to the boiler if it does... - What's a good book on the subject? There are many, many books available on this and associated subjects; some are general texts, some specialize in particular aspects. A good place to start is (unsurprisingly) read through a couple of issues of the magazines mentioned; most of the publishers (Village Press, TEE, Argus) publish and/or sell a number of texts; writing to the publishers should elicit a list of currently available books. Also try some of the suppliers catalogs found in the magazines; A.J. Reeves Ltd., Power Model Supply and Coles Power models all carry books on general topics and specialist areas such as boilers, valve gear etc. - Do you have any other advice? Reading the magazines is all well and good, but try to find someone to talk to who has had some experience - this can not only save lots of frustration but can also lead to lots of very useful shortcuts and even material help. It may mean finding and joining a club, which, if one is considering building a rail vehicle, at least means that there will be somewhere to run it when completed, without then having to build a track too! The first-time builder is strongly recommended to consider choosing a published *model* design (from one of the magazines or plan suppliers) where all the scaling is done, and the finished article will work if built according to the plans. Converting full size prototype drawings to a working scale model is not recommended for the "normal" first-timer! As you might expect, the published plans cover some models suitable for the beginner and others best attempted by an experienced builder. Again, we cannot recommend strongly enough getting advice from a club of some sort if you can find one. Ask the supplier if the design was ever serialized in any of the magazines and if the text is available, either as copies, back issues or as a published book - blow-by-blow instructions can be very reassuring, even if you know what you are doing in a machine shop. Choose wisely, so that interest is maintained. In particular with rail models, you need some rail to run it on. Unless you are fortunate enough to have plenty of land and money, you will probably want to run on a club track - find out what your local club has before you build or you may spend several years creating a beautiful working model with nowhere to run it. If there are several gauges available at your track of choice, consider carefully which track you want to be able to run on. 29. How do I anodize aluminum? (pieced together from various sources, including the newsgroup. JK) First, this is only meant to apply to aluminum. Other metals, such as titanium, niobium, and possibly magnesium and others, can also be anodized. Aluminum oxidizes very quickly, and rapidly forms an aluminum oxide coating that inhibits further oxidization. This coating is useless as is, in terms of protecting the metal, because it is so thin. A thicker coating can be produced by immersing the part in an electrolytic solution and passing an electrical current through it, similar to electroplating. The resulting film is nearly colorless, and can be easily dyed because it is very porous at the molecular level. Then, by placing the part in boiling water, the film's pores can be sealed; the oxide changes from one form to another as a result. To be more specific, parts should be very clean and grease-free. Commercial plants will first clean and etch the surface in a caustic solution, such as lye (sodium hydroxide), followed by a thorough wash. The parts are placed in an acid solution, such as 15-25% sulphuric acid, and connected to the positive source of a power supply (use only aluminum hardware to make the connection; no copper in the solution!). The part(s) comprise the anode, and the cathode is lead (lead sheet, or the whole tank might be lead). Appropriate current is applied, e.g. 1.5 amps per decimeter (3.4 square inches). This lasts 15-25 minutes if no dying is planned, or 45-60 minutes for dying. Dying is the next step, if desired. Since the pores are extremely small, many common dyes will not work. Some wool dyes are known to work, or you can purchase commercial anodizing dyes from an industrial supplier. Typically this involves immersion in the dye solution, which may have to be heated to be effective. Sealing is then done by putting the part in boiling water, which changes the film from "gamma" aluminum oxide a hydrated form called boehmite. Boil for about 20 minutes. Another anodizing process involves using chromic acid. This is not suitable for alloys with more than 5% copper. The film is thinner, but very durable. The very thin film is also a benefit when very close tolerances must be maintained. However, because chromic acid is a very nasty chemical, its use on an "amateur" basis is discouraged, and is commercial use may be closely regulated. Anodizing is sensitive to the type of alloy. For example, alloys for die casting have a lot of silicon, which makes it pour and mold well, but it makes anodizing almost impossible. By all means, find a few references and read them carefully before attempting anodization. If at all possible, try it out on scrap pieces before attempting it on your masterpiece. Be sure to flush the part completely to remove remaining acid. An alternative is to use a commercial firm to do the anodizing. Some net folks report they can be a bit rough to deal with, as they may be more used to dealing with large jobs and may not appreciate a home machinist with a single 5-inch part. Look in the phone book under anodizing, or [electro-]plating. Some have reported using a lye solution to treat the surface, which yields a fairly uniform "fuzzy" surface, that may be acceptable as a final surface without further treatment. Don't use a strong solution or the aluminum will disappear too fast; do this in a well ventilated area, as hydrogen gas is emitted, stay away from flames/sparks, and remember that lye will eat people as well as aluminum! The resulting surface can be dyed, or painted with a chromate primer. (One tablespoon of lye per pint of water has been suggested). Another alternative is a product called Aluminum Black from Birchwood Casey, which is often advertised in model railroading magazines, and may also be available via gun stores (it is in the Brownells catalog). Brownells also lists a nickel plating solution for aluminum, though it appears non-trivial to use. References: 1. There are two books mentioned earlier in this FAQ that deal with anodizing. 2. "Anodizing Aluminum in the Amateur Workshop", in Ham Radio Magazine, January 1979, pages 62-69, by David W. Hembling. Sadly, this magazine is out of business, but should be larger libraries, or available via inter-library loan. This article lists several other references, including addresses for dye makers. 3. "Passivating Aluminum Alloys" in 73 Magazine, September 1965, pages 74-80, by Robert A. Kidder. 4. Some jewelry-making suppliers deal with anodizing. 5. The magazines Strictly IC and Model Engineer allegedly have discussed this, but I don't have exact references. 6. Argus Workshop Practice Series, number 11, by J Poyner. (see name/address section for Argus' address). 7. Sandoz Chemicals Corp supplies dyes for aluminum anodizing. Their phone number is (704) 372-0210. 30. Rust! How do I deal with rust? Some machinists live in areas where rust prevention is important, such as those in humid areas. There are various steps to reduce the problem, and sometimes several steps need to be taken simultaneously. Here are some ideas from previous posts on the topic: Doug White wrote, on 2 Jun 94: I have a lot of expensive tools/toys that I have a LOT of trouble keeping from rusting. Over the years, I have tried many different tricks and products, and I've summarized my results below. The paper is called VPI Paper (Vapor Phase Inhibitor), and it's available from Brownell's (address in FAQ), as are raw crystals. You want to make sure that the 'dusty' side of the paper faces the tool, and don't be surprised if some plastics (vinyl tool pouches) end up with a funny white surface. It doesn't seem to hurt the plastic, but it's disconcerting until you get used to it. The tools will stay rust free much longer if they are sealed in a tight box, or a zip lock bag. In theory, you should replace the paper annually if it's exposed to the air on a semi-regular basis. There is also another similar product called Zrust. This comes in a number of forms, typically plastic 'cartridges' and flat plastic squares. They are also available from Brownells, but if you think you are going to be using a lot of this stuff, you're better off locating a dealer and buying direct. The cartridges can handle an entire tool box or cabinet, and the little squares are good for smaller containers. Once again, the tools should be stored in some sort of container. The more airtight it is, the less frequently you will need to replace the rust-inhibitor. A company called Hydrosorbent sells silica gel desiccant in several convenient sizes. The nice thing about these is that they have an indicator to tell when they're saturated, and you can 'recharge' them in the oven. I use the small aluminum packs for some of my tools, and all of my target pistols. There is a new company that makes the same sort of thing in a plastic case that you can recharge in the microwave. If anyone knows where to get these, I'd love to find out. I also use a dehumidifier in my basement. I live near Boston, and in the summer when my basement is still cool, the relative humidity goes through the roof. I have a 25' x 30' basement, and a 25 pint capacity dehumidifier can keep the RH down to around 50% without running continuously. It's best if you have a drain, so you don't have to remember to empty the bucket all the time. Mine costs me about $20/month in electricity for 3-4 months each year. If you go looking for a dehumidifier, get one that has a freeze-up cutout, and a hose connection on the machine, not the tank. This saves a lot of space, and gets the water source up higher for easy draining. As it is, I have mine up on top of a small set of shelves so that it will drain into the laundry sink. Check Consumer Reports for the most efficient model you can get, it will pay for itself in electricity in short order. Brownells also used to sell 'Gunsmith's Soap', which was supposed to neutralize the pH of your skin before handling things. They discontinued this before I could get a chance to try it, but I have found that washing your hands to remove salts from perspiration can help. If anyone knows a source for 'Gunsmiths Soap', I'd love to try some. The one last trick I use when I'm handling something I don't want to rust (like when I'm disassembling a target pistol) is to wear cotton "inspection gloves" that have been lightly sprayed with a thin rust preventative oil. This simultaneously prevents me from etching things with my corrosive perspiration, and lightly coats everything I touch with oil. If you are concerned about what the oil does to your skin, you can wear latex gloves underneath the cotton. It doesn't work well for really delicate work, and you have to be careful not to let anything slip through your fingers. There are several spray treatments that work well for storage. My current favorite was developed by Boeing, and is called BoeShield T-9. It's available from many marine supply houses. After the carrier evaporates, it leaves a thin surface film that does an excellent job of protecting steel from corrosion. ================================== Doug White followed up on the above, on Fri, 3 Jun 1994, with these addresses: Hydosorbent Co. Box 437 Ashley Falls, MA 01222 (413) 229-2967 Sells Silica Gel descant packages in the following sizes: 750 gram aluminum canister, 6"H x 4"D, protects 57 cubic ft., $24 360 gram carton, 2" x 4" x 5", protects 27 cubic ft., $10.75 40 gram aluminum box, 4" x 2" x 1/2", protects 3 cubic ft., $5.95 26 gram packets, 2 12" x 4", protects 2 cubic ft., $12.00/10 All but the packets are re-chargeable in an oven. Post-paid, but $2.00 shipping charge. They take MC/VISA Northern Instruments Corp. Lake Industrial Park 6680 N. Hwy. 49 Lino Lakes, MN 55014 (612) 784-1250 These folks sell a variety of VPI products. The two most useful ones are their Zerust Vapor Capsules and Plastabs. The capsules are plastic and have and adhesive strip to stick them into tool chests, machine tool cabinets etc. The Plastabs are small squares cut from a 1/16" yellow sheet. The capsules come in several sizes, and are rated by radius of protection, and lifetime: VC-1-1, 1' protection radius for 1 year VC-2-1, 2' protection radius for 1 year VC-2-2, 2' protection radius for 2 years VC-6-2, 6' protection radius for 2 years The only ones I have a price on is the VC-2-1, which were $5 each. The protection life varies with the degree to which the container is sealed. The capsules have a label to mark when they were installed so you know when to replace them. Considering the cost, you may be better off with the silica gel canisters. They will need recharging more often, but have an indicator. I couldn't find any detailed literature on the Plastabs, but I bought a sack with over 500 1/2" squares for $60. They are much easier to use than VPI paper for small tools and parts. I just toss one or two into a zip lock bag of small tool case. These are sold in the 3/4" size by Brownells as 'Rust-Blox' (see below), where they claim they are good for 300 cubic inches. Brownells wants $27.20 for 100, which is a good bit more expensive than buying them in bulk from the Zerust people. You'll need to call them to find a local distributor. The shelf life is probably limited, even well sealed in a plastic bag, so if you don't need a lot, Brownells may still be cheaper. Brownells Inc. 200 S. Street Montezuma, IA 50171-9989 (516) 623-5401 This is a gunsmith supply house, and sells a lot of good tools and other gadgets that even non-gunsmiths can use. They have an extensive range of rust preventing supplies. They sell the Hydrosorbent canisters for slightly less than Hydrosorbent does, and they carry the VPI tablets in small (but more expensive) quantities than N. Instruments. They also sell VPI paper and Cosmoline (THE original GI rust preventative grease). The paper comes in 12" sq sheets, and can protect 1 cubic ft. for 2 years MINIMUM. Typically, it lasts much longer. They carry half a dozen varieties of aerosol rust preventatives, greases etc. Stock # 415-100-040 40 gram silica gel cartridge $5.50 415-100-360 360 gram silica gel carton $9.95 415-100-750 750 gram silica gel canister $22.50 084-058-050 50 Rust-Blox Vapor Tabs $15.70 084-058-100 100 Rust-Blox Vapor Tabs $27.20 084-031-010 VPI Paper, 10 sheets, 12" x 12" $4.20 084-031-010 VPI Paper, 50 sheets, 12" x 12" $14.88 I think that exhausts everything I know about rust prevention. I've been fighting the battle ever since I moved from New Mexico 24 years ago, and I hope this can save someone some trouble. Doug White MIT Lincoln Laboratory ===================================================== If the parts are small enough for that treatment then you can use "Blue Bags". They are made by Bianchi ostensibly to store handguns in, but I find that any rustable metal parts are protected by them. They have zip lock style tops and come in several sizes. I believe they also sell some in rifle sizes but without the zip lock closure. ===================================================== For rust removal, the most common suggestion was Naval Jelly by Duro, available at many hardware stores. It contains dilute phosphoric acid as its main ingredient. Be prepared to apply a proper preventive after removal, as the metal will be left in a vulnerable condition.