'Marjan Express' Saturday 8 February 1997 First trip of 1997 and I was joined this time by Adrian Nicholls on his first trip for over 9 months having been given permission to leave his other half all on her own for a week. We met up at Ashford for a fairly wedged Eurostar to Paris to arrive, hardly surprising, on time. Across to the Gare-de-Lyon by the RER where we had a meal and bit of a fester before our TGV to Genève. It was when I caught sight of the indicator board at Gare-de-Lyon I noticed things were not looking good with a brief message announcing a strike in Italy. I tried to seek out more from the SNCF who seemed to have little info on when it was going to start or end and had no idea what would be happening to out overnight we had pre booked couchettes from Genève to Divca. We opted to see what would happen when we got to Genève which as it turned out was a bad move. We arrived in Genève to find that the SBB knew exactly when the FS strike was due to start - it was from that night at 2100 for 24 hours. Drat!! Our overnight (train 221) was only to run to Brig so with no other choice we ended up having to spend the night in a hotel and a major re plan for the next day. Ashford International -- 0953 3015+3016 9012 0853 London Waterloo - Paris-Nord Paris-Nord 1308 1327 Z20731 RER D 1308 Villiers-la-Bel - Melun Paris-Gare-de-Lyon 1337 1717 TGV 327 EC977 1717 Paris-Gare-de-Lyon - Genève Genève 2055 -- Sunday 9 February 1997 The only way we could get to Slovenia was via Austria, I arranged for my priv rate ticket to Iselle to be excessed to one to Buchs, fortunately Adrian was on free passes throughout and I had a free pass for Austria. An early start in order to catch up and end up in Celje where we had a room booked for Sunday night, we took the scenic, long way around with a few more 1044s through Austria to arrive in Ljubljana. First thing was to get some money changed up which turned out to be a real riot with the woman behind the desk with a hair-do looking more like an explosion in a candy floss factory with half a tin of sky blue emulsion paint thrown in for good measure! By now we ought to have arrived in Celje so I phoned the hotel to let them know we would be very late. Unfortunately today's plans to cover the border crossing into Slovenia at Villa Opicina and the branch to Koper had to be missed out all down to the Italians being out on strike. Thanks very much FS! Genève -- 0559 11192 IC711 0559 Genève - St Gallen Zürich HB 0857 0933 460.103 EC163 0825 Basel SBB - Wien Westbf Buchs SG 1045 1052 1044.274 EC163 0825 Basel SBB - Wien Westbf +1042.604 Banker: Bludenz - Landeck Innsbruck Hbf 1321 1325 1044.233 IC547 1325 Innsbruck Hbf - Wien Westbf Schwarzach-St Veit 1549 1616 1044.064 EC11 0546 Berlin Zoo - Zagreb Gl.kol. Villach Hbf 1800 1810 1044.012 EC11 0546 Berlin Zoo - Zagreb Gl.kol. Jesenice 1846 1900 342.001 EC11 0546 Berlin Zoo - Zagreb Gl.kol. Ljubljana 1955 2105 342.034 MV265 1816 Trieste C.le - Zagreb Gl.kol Zidani Most 2159 2217 311.225 2018 2110 Ljubljana - Maribor Celje 2241 -- Monday 10 February 1997 Back on plan this morning, we covered the kart worked branch to Velenje before heading off to Zagreb. Having spent 20 minutes queuing up in the bank on Zagreb station (which doesn't boast any cashiers with crazy hair-dos) we book into our hotel for the next three nights, off loaded our rucksacks before heading back for a move back into Slovenija. The plus 3 at Zidani Most was easily made, running in around 20 late, possibly as a result of the FS strike having just ended. With the 342 coming off at Pragersko we were then treated to a pair of 664/1s for the onward run - these engines only have two return workings (Pragersko to Murska Sobota & Cakovec) being the only diesel locos to work in Slovenija. The stock was mainly aircons so we moved further towards the front of the train for a meal in the restaurant car where the 664/1s provided some lovely background music. We lost the SZ engines at Cakovec for our first of many of the HZ diesels we were to have for the week - absolute superb machines. Our move took us to Murakeresztúr just over the Hungarian border which caused some mega wind ups of the border police. We were ushered back on to the train as soon as we got off - the police preferring to check the whole train through. They were completely withered as to why we wanted to get off there and not go through to Budapest! Once we got off the train we thought it best not to join our return back to Croatia which was sitting on the opposite platform so we disappeared off into the station building for a few minutes. We re appeared about 5 minutes before departure, got on and some reason the border police must have been tipped off by some p-way workers who were on the platform. First of all the Hungarian police came storming into our compartment to find out what was going and once we reassured them they left us alone. Then seconds later we get an encore, this time the Croatian Policija want to know what was going on too as we tried again to explain our intentions. They eventually left completely withered and sat back with a sigh of relief and enjoyed the run back behind the 2044 to Zagreb. Celje -- 0825 813.033 3504 0825 Celje - Velenje Velenje 0915 0950 813.033 3505 0950 Velenje - Celje Celje 1040 1053 711.005 +711.017 IC505 0935 Spielfeld Straß - Ljubljana Zidani Most 1115 1155 311.203 2309 1155 Zidani Most - Dobova Dobova 1241 1255 6111.019 7805 1255 Dobova - Zagreb Gl.kol. Zagreb Gl.kol. 1338 1435 1142.003 Ex220 1435 Zagreb Gl.kol. - Genève Aéro Dobova 1503 1517 342.038 MV220 1435 Zagreb Gl.kol. - Genève Aéro Zidani Most 1559 1602 342.036 IC243 0955 Venezia SL - Budapest-Keleti Pragersko 1704 1714 664.107 +664.111 IC243 0955 Venezia SL - Budapest-Keleti Cakovec 1811 1825 2044.015 IC253 0955 Venezia SL - Budapest-Keleti Murakeresztúr 1856 1934 2044.015 B204 1510 Budapest-Déli pu. - Split Zagreb Gl.kol. 2205 -- Tuesday 11 February 1997 The first of several early starts, today we headed for Vinkovci and Osijek, both as close as we'll probably get to Serbia for a long time. Vinkovci station is somewhat oversized for its purpose nowadays, with half the of the 6 lines that meet there closed and few people about it has a certain sense of unease about it. We covered an out and back run to Zupanja with a 2062 on a set of 4 wheeled coaches and surprisingly had no problems in taking photos at the end especially since it is so close to the Serbian border. Meanwhile the Policija back in Vinkovci didn't take to kind to the idea of cameras being pointed around and after a bit of a stiff lecture in Croat they left us alone. We then headed for Osijek and after an excellent meal in the station restaurant, covered the short branch to Donji Grad. Hardly a building in sight in Osijek had escaped gunfire during the war a few years back with walls peppered with potholes. After a short kart worked branch to Belisce we returned to Zagreb clocking up much new track on the way. Zagreb Gl.kol. -- 0600 1142.003 B741 0600 Zagreb Gl.kol. - Vinkovci Vinkovci 0912 0948 2062.036 2705 0948 Vinkovci - Zupanja Zupanja 1030 1044 2062.036 2704 1044 Zupanja - Vinkovci Vinkovci 1127 1137 1141.011 2018 1137 Vinkovci - Zagreb Gl.kol Strizivojna-Vrpolje 1203 1212 7121.024 6404 1145 Slavonski Samac - Osijek Osijek 1326 1425 2044.028 6101 1425 Osijek - Osijek Donji Grad Osijek Donji Grad 1435 1444 2044.028 6012 1444 Osijek D.Grad - Virovitica Bizovac 1527 1555 7121.031 6056 1512 Osijek Donji Grad - Belisce Belisce 1611 1613 7121.031 6057 1613 Belisce - Bizovac Bizovac 1631 1636 2044.003 B782 1620 Osijek - Zagreb Gl.kol. Koprivnica 1914 1931 1141.016 B782 1620 Osijek - Zagreb Gl.kol. Zagreb Gl.kol. 2036 -- Wednesday 12 February 1997 Off to a bad start this morning, the first overnight up from Split was over 30 late into Zagreb, conveying through carriages for both Osijek and Vinkovci meant a late start, followed by losing its pathway on the single line beyond Dugo Selo on the line towards Koprivnica. We pulled into Krizevci over 30 late to see our planned move had gone without being held, the idea being to cover the slower route via Bjelovar to Klostar. So we stayed on the train and promptly watched our planned move pull into Klostar as we went the quick way round via Koprivnica! We then take 2062.007 to Nasice for some more kart worked secondary lines before ending up at Novska for another riot of a move. Just why the short section of line from Novska as far as Jasenovac (right on the Bosnian border) has re opened is anyone's guess - the line is very badly damaged, most of the overhead electrification missing and hardly anyone on the one coach train worked by 2062.035. Had it been a bit lighter it would have made a superb picture at Jasenovac of the 2062 and its train next to the station which has had half its side blown off presumably by a shell attack. Zagreb Gl.kol. -- 0550 1141.102 B783 0550 Zagreb Gl.kol. - Osijek Koprivnica 0700 0716 2044.006 B793 0550 Zagreb Gl.kol. - Osijek Klostar 0751 0854 2062.007 6001 0702 Varazdin - Osijek Nasice 1057 1123 7121.027 6652 1123 Nasice - Nova Kapela-Batrina Pleternica 1235 1245 7121.019 6609 1218 Nova Kapela-Batrina - Velika Velika 1331 1354 7121.019 6608 1354 Velika - Nova Kapela-Batrina Nova Kapela-Batrina 1500 1557 1141.027 2020 1430 Vinkovci - Zagreb Gl.kol. Novska 1649 1712 2062.035 5206 1712 Novska - Jasenovac Jasenovac 1728 1744 2062.035 5207 1744 Jasenovac - Novska Novska 1800 1808 1141.001 2110 1808 Novska - Zagreb Gl.kol. Zagreb Gl.kol. 1954 -- Thursday 13 February 1997 A long kart run this morning from Banova Jaruga to Virovitica, the only hauled working on this line which used to work from Virovitica to Zagreb the long way round has now gone over to a kart which we saw going by the other way on the main line coming from Zagreb. The Policija travelled half the way over the line to Daruvar and came along asking us for our passports, it soon became apparent that despite quite away from the border with Bosnia or Serbia several towns on this line such as Lipik and Pakrac were badly attacked with virtually every building damaged in some way or another. After another 2044 to Koprivnica we were seriously blown up when instead of the booked loco and coaches, our next move turned out to be formed of 3 ex SJ karts. We were NOT impressed. Further more the other diagram was still hauled which left us foaming at the mouth but we carried on nevertheless towards Cakovec with more ex SJ karts to cover the one through train a day on the Lendava branch which actually ends in Slovenija. With no border Policija in sight and only a couple of normals the effort hardly seems worth it. Back to Zagreb for a quick meal in the excellent station restaurant before retrieving the rucksacks from left luggage and securing a compo in the one through coach from Zagreb to Zadar. Virtually empty (with the Split coaches quite wedged), though stock was of the 8 seat variety, not the pull together ex first class seats which seem to be on virtually all other trains. The heating worked flat out all night and couldn't be turned off just to make matters worse. Yet again the Policija came along soon after Zagreb checking passports. Although the diagrams we had showed the 2062s booked from Zagreb, the run as far as Ostarije was electric worked. We were entertained by a tremendous thunder storm whilst we sat at a shack in the middle of nowhere when 1141.106 went off ahead to rescue a failed freight in the single line section in front putting us down nearly an hour by the time the loco change had taken place at Ostarije. In the few seconds it took me to leap from the coach behind the sleeping car and motor rail wagon on the front of the train to get the 2062 I was completely soaked to the skin not to mention given the shock of my life with a bolt of lightning lighting up the night sky! Zagreb Gl.kol. -- 0650 1141.110 2011 0650 Zagreb Gl.kol. - Vinkovci Banova Jaruga 0820 0900 7121.026 2412 0900 Banova Jaruga - Virovitica Virovitica 1208 1305 2044.027 6804 1305 Virovitica - Koprivnica Koprivnica 1416 1435 7122.001 +7122.006 +7122.011 3604 1435 Koprivnica - Varazdin Varazdin 1528 1535 7122.002 3304 1535 Varazdin - Kotoriba Cakovec 1545 1555 7122.007 7930 1555 Cakovec - Lendava Lendava 1635 1645 7122.007 7931 1645 Lendava - Cakovec Cakovec 1725 1755 2044.011 995 1755 Cakovec - Zagreb Gl.kol. Zagreb Gl.kol. 2010 2115 1141.106 B821 2115 Zagreb Gl.kol. - Split Ostarije 2248 2249 2062.002 B821 2111 Zagreb Gl.kol. - Split Friday 14 February 1997 Arrived about 20 late in to Zadar in clear blue skies, today was to be continuous runs behind 2062s. After a couple of coffees in the station bar at Zadar and a quick wander around, the train back to Knin was again formed of just one coach but another loco. With no prior warning, the gripper came round to announce "Autobussy" when we pulled into Benkovac, at least we got all the track in. The bus took us almost direct by road to Knin and again one village we passed through had been completely swiped out during the war. We had over 3 hours to wait in Knin - we did consider an up and back move to Gracac for a plus 1 which we decided against so we went looking for a place to eat instead. We ended up at a restaurant where the manager treated us like Kings - were we the first British tourists to visit Knin I ask? The food just kept piling up on the table until we had to say no more as he spoiled us something terrible! We then took the southbound "Marjan Express" with the through coach to Sibenik easily making the plus 3 at the end of the branch to score another one back up. Finally doubling back to Cera for the last of 8 consecutive runs behind 2062s to the end of the line at Split. By now we were quite tired and summoned the help of a taxi driver to find a reasonable priced hotel for the night. Within minutes we had a room all sorted out, contrary to advice that there was nothing in Split for under a £100, the £4 taxi fare was a good investment (see end of report for details). Knin 0350 0419 2062.021 5701 0419 Knin - Zadar Zadar 0637 0815 2062.049 5702 0815 Zadar - Knin Benkovac 0907 0907 Bus 5702 0815 Zadar - Knin Knin 1032 1345 2062.051 B721 0700 Zagreb Gl.kol. - Split Perkovic 1448 1503 2062.050 922 1353 Split - Sibenik Sibenik 1529 1532 2062.056 5808 1532 Sibenik - Perkovic Perkovic 1600 1630 2062.033 5504 1528 Split - Knin Cera 1638 1652 2062.039 5505 1550 Knin - Split Split 1757 -- Saturday 15 February 1997 After a good nights sleep and shower, today we returned straight back to Zagreb to enjoy this amazing line throughout in daylight - the scenery is absolutely spectacular in places and despite a van and motor rail wagon between the front coach and loco, 7 hours of GM thrash most of it in full notch this line is an absolute must! The "Marjan Express" has a good restaurant car on as well and most of the journey we had an ex 1st class compartment all to ourselves. Once again we changed locos at Ostarije for a spark box in to Zagreb by then nearly 30 late some of it because of the loco change - only a minute is booked so why not leave the 2062 on all the way I ask? We just make our out and back run in a kart to Sisak Caprag before a quick visit to McDs and our overnight back to München. Split -- 0825 2062.050 B720 0825 Split - Zagreb Gl.kol. Ostarije 1526 1527 1141.035 B720 0825 Split - Zagreb Gl.kol. Zagreb Gl.kol. 1710 1743 6111.011 5119 1743 Zagreb - Sisak Caprag Sisak Caprag 1846 1932 6111.011 5120 1932 Sisak Caprag - Zagreb Zagreb Gl.kol. 2034 2100 1142.005 +1142.013 B296 2100 Zagreb Gl.kol. - München Hbf Dobova 2128 2145 342.010 MV296 2100 Zagreb Gl.kol. - München Hbf Sunday 16 February 1997 With passport grips taking place at each border stop during the night in our compartment couchettes seemed to be a pointless exercise. Spot on time in to München and a non eventful run right across Germany avoiding white worms (ICEs) in favour of loco hauled stock. We were gutted to discover the Pizza restaurant opposite Köln Hbf has gone but located suitable alternative facilities just around the corner. A boring run through Belgium in new SNCB coffins to Bruxelles for the busiest Eurostar I've ever been on so far. Jesenice 0035 0057 1044.274 D296 2100 Zagreb Gl.kol. - München Hbf München Hbf 0613 0645 120.112 IC616 0645 München Hbf - Münster/W Hbf Stuttgart Hbf 0904 0911 120.127 IC616 0645 München Hbf - Münster/W Hbf Köln Hbf 1229 1414 1606 D426 1414 Köln Hbf - Oostende +2383 Banker at Liège Bruxelles-Midi 1655 1753 3213+3214 9153 1753 Bruxelles-M - London W'loo Ashford International 1924 -- Conclusions: After the major blow up at the start of the trip all thanks to the FS it all went more or less as per plan. With a feast of decent motive power like 664/s in Slovenia and 2044s/2062s in Croatia there is so much going for these two countries. Slovenija despite quite a large number of karts is none the less interesting, trains are spotless and some of the most comfortable stock anywhere in Europe. Further on into Croatia you'll be spoilt for choice as for the number of trains worked by the superb 2044s and 2062s. This was partially a track and loco bash so we ended up venturing into some areas where the sight of a camera doesn't go down too well with the local Policija, but the best way around was to plead ignorance and generally we were then left alone. The bash took us over most of the system so you can get a general picture as to what bits are loco hauled and units, beware some karts work on some of the lines (e.g. Zagreb to Cakovec). The news of 20 new SJ karts was not welcome, hopefully some of them have been drafted in to replace the 4 wheeled "Schienenbuses" (similar to the DB 798s). The Split line and the two branches to Zadar and Sibenik are an absolute must, I would strongly suggest cover the line at least one way in daylight, the same goes for the line to Rijeka (not covered this time). Timekeeping wasn't perfect, one missed connection and some trains up to 30 or so late not helped with so much of the system being single tracked. As for overnights, the Split line now has two overnights each way, both trains with sleepers, one also with couchettes. The seated coaches to Split seemed quite well loaded whilst the Zadar coach was much less busy. There are other seated overnights between Zagreb and Vinkovci and also Osijek (seats only) for the real desperados, but BEWARE the overnight Budapest to Rijeka and vv (trains 208/9 "Adriatica") have been withdrawn being deleted from the departure posters at Zagreb. Alternative is hotel accommodation, for the second time I found the place in Zagreb to be adequate - very handy for the station. One hotel noted in Osijek just outside the station but nothing much else noted except in the costal resorts such as Split. Hotels used: Genève: Hotel Montana, 23 Rue des Alpes, CH-1201 Genève. Tel. 022 7320840, Fax 022 7382511, E-Mail hotel.montana@span.ch Twin room with WC/Bath/TV/ breakfast (from 0630 - not taken) 120SwF. Directions - out of main entrance, bear left, cross street and first right - hotel is on right hand side. Less than 5 minutes. Really only stopped there because of no overnight train forward. As it turned out, OK but like everything else in Switzerland very expensive. Celje: Hotel Turska Macka, Gledaliska ul. 7, 3000 Celje. Tel. 063 484611. Twin room with WC/Shower/TV/breakfast (from 0600) 8332SIT (£35). Directions - out of station entrance and follow main shopping street which leads directly away. Hotel is in a side street on right hand side. Approx. 5 to 10 minutes. My second visit there, hotel is very clean and modern - German/ Austrian standards. Reception speak staff speak German, no English spoken at all. Zagreb: Omladinski Hotel, Petrinjska 77, 1000 Zagreb. Tel. 01 434964, Fax 01 434962. Twin room with WC/shower (no breakfast) 255 Kn (£27) per night. Directions out of main station entrance, turn right and Petrinjska leads away from station opposite plinthed steam loco. Hotel a couple of blocks on the right. This place is quite basic, the room we had was the top of the range (ie with facilities) since it doubles up as a youth hostel with dormitories/communal WCs etc. for much cheaper rates. The reception staff are best described as characterless (English spoken) but with early starts/ late finishes it was ideal for a nights sleep and is extremely close to the station. There are two other hotels nearby - the Central and Astoria both look to be more up market. Warning if you want to reserve you'll probably be asked to fax, though when we got there there seemed to be plenty of rooms free. Split: Hotel Dom Zentar, Inana pl. Zajca br. 2, 58000 Split. Tel. 058 357229, Fax 058 357245. Twin room with WC/bath/breakfast (from 0630) 369 Kn (£39). Directions - although not too far from station directions are complex, best to take a taxi there (cost 40 Kn) - from the outside there are no signs saying it is a hotel(!) - it turned out it doubles up as a old peoples home, but nonetheless a superb view over the sea and recommended. Ask the reception (English spoken) for a map of Split and the walk back to the station was about 20 minutes along the paths and parks along the seafront. After being lead to believe there were very few and only expensive hotels in Split this turned out to be a good location. Report wriiten by: Phil Richards who travelled with Adrian Nicholls CompuServe: 101471,731 Internet: http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/Philip_Richards